Wilia Top

Vilia Top

The top is knitted in the round from the top down without seams. Short rows are used when knitting the yoke. The sleeves are knitted in the round.

Sizes

Sizes: a) XS, b) S, c) M, d) L, e) XL, f) XXL, g) 3XL.

Finished bust circumference: a) 87 cm, b) 93 cm, c) 97.5 cm, d) 102.5 cm, e) 108 cm, f) 113 cm, g) 119 cm. The photo shows a size L sweater with 2 cm ease.

Materials

Alize Lino yarn (75% viscose, 25% linen; 169 m / 50 g): a) 225 g, b) 250 g, c) 275 g, d) 300 g, e) 325 g, f) 350 g, g) 375 g. You can use another yarn of similar composition and yardage. Be sure to knit a swatch, wet block it, and compare the gauge with the stated gauge.

Tools

Circular needles 3.5 mm, 5 markers, waste yarn.

Gauge

23 sts × 33 rows = 10 × 10 cm in stockinette stitch with 3.5 mm needles after wet blocking. Using a different yarn and a different gauge may result in different garment dimensions.

Abbreviations and Symbols

• • • — repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
• K — knit stitch.
• P — purl stitch.
• BOR — beginning of round marker.
• M1, M2, M3, M4 — markers 1, 2, 3, 4.
• M1R — increase 1 knit stitch from the strand: lift the strand from back to front and knit it through the front loop.
• M1L — increase 1 knit stitch from the strand: lift the strand from front to back and knit it twisted through the back loop.

Neckline

Cast on 3.5 mm needles a) 112, b) 116, c) 120, d) 120, e) 126, f) 128, g) 128 stitches. Use a standard classic or German twisted cast-on onto one needle. Join the knitting in the round and place the BOR marker.

Work 3 rows: row 1 — knit, row 2 — purl, row 3 — knit. In the 4th row, increase stitches evenly: for size a) no increases; for b) increase 4 stitches (after every 29th stitch); for c) increase 4 stitches (after every 30th stitch); for d) increase 12 stitches (after every 10th stitch); for e) increase 14 stitches (after every 9th stitch); for f) increase 16 stitches (after every 8th stitch); for g) increase 24 stitches, repeating the sequence k5, M1L, k6, M1L, k5, M1L. Then knit the 5th row. On the needles: a) 112, b) 120, c) 124, d) 132, e) 140, f) 144, g) 152 stitches.

Important: while knitting the yoke, the BOR marker is located at the center back.

Patterned Part of the Yoke

Next, knit the lace part of the yoke according to the chosen chart (Chart 1 or Chart 2 at the end of the instructions) to the desired height. After completing the pattern part, there should be: a) 280, b) 300, c) 310, d) 330, e) 350, f) 360, g) 380 stitches on the needles.

In the next round, place markers, dividing the stitches into sections: half back, sleeve, front, sleeve, half back. To do this, knit the stitches of half the back: a) 42, b) 45, c) 46, d) 49, e) 52, f) 54, g) 58; place M1. Knit the sleeve stitches: a) 53, b) 57, c) 59, d) 63, e) 67, f) 68, g) 71; place M2. Knit the front stitches: a) 91, b) 97, c) 101, d) 107, e) 113, f) 117, g) 123; place M3. Knit the stitches of the second sleeve (the same values as for the first sleeve); place M4. Knit the remaining stitches of half the back: a) 41, b) 44, c) 45, d) 48, e) 51, f) 53, g) 57.

Shaping the Yoke with Short Rows

The back neck shaping is worked with short rows using the wrap-and-turn method. Technique: on a WS row, work until the turning stitch, bring the yarn to the front. Without knitting, slip the stitch to the right needle, bring the yarn to the back, return the slipped stitch to the left needle, and turn the work. On a RS row, knit until the turning stitch with the yarn at the back. Without knitting, slip the stitch to the right needle, bring the yarn to the front, return the stitch to the left needle, and turn the work. The slipped stitch will be wrapped by the strand. The next time this stitch is worked, knit it together with the wrap, first lifting the wrap onto the needle so that it remains on the WS.

Work the short rows as follows:

1. RS row: from the BOR marker, knit to M1, then knit a) 43, b) 47, c) 49, d) 53, e) 57, f) 58, g) 61 stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn the work.
2. WS row: purl to the BOR marker, then to M4, purl the same number of stitches (a–g), wrap the next stitch, and turn the work.
3. RS row: knit to the wrapped stitch of the previous RS row, knit 4 more stitches (including the wrapped stitch), wrap the next stitch, and turn the work.
4. WS row: purl to the wrapped stitch of the previous WS row, purl 4 more stitches, wrap the next stitch, and turn the work.

Repeat rows 3–4 five more times. Then knit an RS row to the BOR marker and continue knitting in the round.

Dividing the Stitches into Body and Sleeves

In the next round, knit to M1, remove M1, transfer the sleeve stitches (a) 53, b) 57, c) 59, d) 63, e) 67, f) 68, g) 71) to waste yarn or the needle cable, remove M2. From a chain of chain stitches (crocheted separately with a crochet hook from waste yarn), cast on a) 14, b) 14, c) 16, d) 16, e) 16, f) 18, g) 18 underarm stitches. Knit the front stitches to M3, remove M3, transfer the stitches of the second sleeve to waste yarn, remove M4, cast on the second underarm from the same number of stitches, and knit the remaining stitches to the BOR marker. On the needles: a) 202, b) 214, c) 224, d) 236, e) 248, f) 260, g) 274 stitches.

Body

In the set-up row, move the beginning-of-round marker by knitting a) 49, b) 52, c) 54, d) 57, e) 60, f) 63, g) 67 stitches; place a new BOR marker. Knit a) 105, b) 111, c) 117, d) 123, e) 129, f) 135, g) 141 stitches, place the side-line marker (M1), then knit the remaining a) 97, b) 103, c) 107, d) 113, e) 119, f) 125, g) 133 stitches to the new BOR marker.

Knit a) 4, b) 4, c) 3, d) 3, e) 3, f) 3, g) 4 rows. Then make front decreases: in each repeat cycle (a) 5, b) 5, c) 4, d) 4, e) 4, f) 4, g) 5 rows), knit 1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before the side-line marker, ssk, knit 1. Repeat the cycle a) 3, b) 3, c) 4, d) 4, e) 4, f) 4, g) 3 times. On the needles: a) 194, b) 206, c) 214, d) 226, e) 238, f) 250, g) 266 stitches.

Knit 4 rows. Then make increases at the front and back: in each cycle, k1, M1L, knit to 1 stitch before the side-line marker, M1R, k1, then k1, M1L, knit to 1 stitch before the BOR marker, M1R, k1. Between increase cycles, knit a) 24, b) 36, c) 36, d) 24, e) 36, f) 24, g) 24 rows. Repeat the increase cycles with the intermediate rows a) 2, b) 1, c) 1, d) 2, e) 1, f) 2, g) 2 times, then work 1 more increase row. On the needles: a) 210, b) 218, c) 226, d) 242, e) 250, f) 266, g) 282 stitches.

Knit 16 rows or knit to a length that is 7 cm less than the desired length of the top. In the last row, decrease 2 stitches evenly.

Body edging

The body edging is 7 cm wide. Work rows 1–22 according to Chart 3. On row 21, shift the BOR marker 1 stitch to the right. Bind off in pattern in any convenient way; a purlwise pass-over bind-off is recommended. Cut the yarn.

Right sleeve

Transfer the held sleeve stitches and a) 15, b) 15, c) 17, d) 17, e) 17, f) 19, g) 19 underarm stitches (while unraveling the waste yarn) to 3.5 mm circular needles. With RS facing, join yarn after a) 7, b) 7, c) 8, d) 8, e) 8, f) 9, g) 9 underarm sts, place the BOR marker, and work in the round. Total on sleeve: a) 68, b) 72, c) 76, d) 80, e) 84, f) 87, g) 90 sts.

Knit 4 rounds. On rnd 5, knit to 2 sts before the BOR marker, then ssk. On rnd 6: k1, k2tog, then knit to end of round. Repeat this sequence (4 rounds without decreases, then 2 rounds with decreases) 2 more times. On the needles: a) 62, b) 66, c) 70, d) 74, e) 78, f) 81, g) 84 sts.

Knit 5 rounds. For size f), on the last round, k2tog the last two stitches.

Work 2 rounds in Chain pattern: rnd 1 — sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, p1; rnd 2 — p1, sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front. Then knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round. Bind off in any convenient way; a purlwise pass-over bind-off is recommended. Cut the yarn.

Work the left sleeve in the same way.

Finishing

Weave in the ends on the WS. Hand wash the top in cool water with liquid detergent. Do not wring the garment. Gently press out some water by wrapping the top in a towel so that excess moisture is absorbed. Dry flat on a horizontal surface, laid out and shaped as desired. Wait until completely dry.

Garment measurements

Below are parameters a–h (in cm) for all sizes:

• XS: a — 55, b — 21.5, c — 51, d — 87.5, e — 90.5, f — 29.5, g — 7.5, h — 27.
• S: a — 56.5, b — 22, c — 51, d — 93, e — 94, f — 31.5, g — 7.5, h — 29.
• M: a — 58, b — 22.5, c — 51, d — 97.5, e — 97.5, f — 33, g — 7.5, h — 30.5.
• L: a — 58, b — 23, c — 51, d — 102.5, e — 104.5, f — 35, g — 7.5, h — 32.5.
• XL: a — 60, b — 23.5, c — 51, d — 108, e — 108, f — 36.5, g — 7.5, h — 34.
• XXL: a — 61, b — 24, c — 51, d — 113, e — 115, f — 38, g — 7.5, h — 35.5.
• 3XL: a — 61, b — 24.5, c — 51, d — 119, e — 121.5, f — 39, g — 7.5, h — 36.5.

Charts

Chart 1:

Chart 2:

Chart 3:

Chart key

• Knit stitch.
• Purl stitch.
• No stitch.
• Yarn over.
• Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front.
• Ssk.
• K2tog.
• Knit 3 together with the center stitch on top.
• Knit 3 together by the pass-over method: slip the first stitch knitwise, k2tog, then pass the first slipped stitch over the resulting stitch.
• Work 2 knit stitches from 3 stitches (see below).
• Work 3 stitches from 1 stitch 3 rows below (see below).
• Knit 3.
• Shift BOR marker 1 stitch to the right.

Additional notes:

• Work 3 stitches from 1 stitch 3 rows below: insert the right needle into the corresponding stitch 3 rows below, pull up a long loop, yarn over, and pull up another long loop. Drop the stitch from which the loops were pulled off the left needle and unravel it.
• Work 2 knit stitches from 3 stitches: k2tog, pick up the second of the knitted stitches (the left one) by its outer leg, knit the next stitch, and pass it over the stitch on the right needle.