Vanilla Twirl Cardigan

Введение

DROPS 268-19

vanillatwirlcardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern e-392
Yarn group A

Materials & Sizes

SIZES
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 71, Marzipan

BUTTONS
DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 6 items in all sizes.

Materials & Sizes

NEEDLES
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle.

KNITTING TENSION
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch on needle size 3.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Remember, the needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get to few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Pattern instructions
Keep the screen on while knitting
Tools

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN

GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN

Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side), work the yarn overs as follows:
BEFORE RAGLAN-STITCH (yarn-over twists to left):
Purl through the stitch loop that lies on the back of the needle (avoids a hole).
AFTER RAGLAN-STITCH (yarn-over twists to right):
Slip the yarn-over purl-wise from the left to the right needle, replace it on the left needle the other way round (insert the left needle through the back when replacing it). Purl through the stitch loop that lies on the front of the needle (avoids a hole).

V-NECK

All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over as follows: Work the left band as before (= 3 stitches), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work until there are 4 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 and work the right band as before.
On the next row from the wrong side, work the yarn overs as follows:
BEGINNING OF ROW (yarn-over twists to right):
Slip the yarn-over purl-wise from the left to the right needle, replace it on the left needle the other way round (insert the left needle through the back when replacing it). Purl through the stitch loop that lies on the front of the needle (avoids a hole).
END OF ROW (yarn-over twists to left):
Purl through the stitch loop that lies on the back of the needle (avoids a hole).

BUTTONHOLES

Work the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn) from the right side, when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, 1 garter stitch, slip 1 purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the increases for the V-neck are finished. Then work the other 5-5-5-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with 4½-4½-5-5-5-5½-5½ cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and A.1 (flounces) on the body.

DECREASE TIP

Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

PATTERN
See diagram A.1.
Choose diagram for your size.

SLEEVE TIP

When knitting up stitches under the sleeve, you can get a small hole in the transition between stitches on the body and sleeve. This hole can be closed by picking up the strand between 2 stitches and working this strand twisted together with the first stitch between body and sleeve.

START THE PIECE HERE

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The 2 bands are worked first, then stitches are cast on between them and the yoke is worked back and forth, from mid front and top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.
The bands are sewn together at the back of the neck, then sewn to the neckline.
If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD

Cast on 3 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Safran. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work as follows:

RIGHT SIDE

Work 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

WRONG SIDE

Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work 1 garter stitch.

Work back and forth until the band measures 13-14-14-14½-15-16-16½ cm, with the last row from the wrong side. Cut the strand.
Leave the stitches on the needle and work the left band.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD

Cast on 3 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work as follows:

RIGHT SIDE
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work 1 garter stitch.

WRONG SIDE

Work 1 garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

Work back and forth until the band measures 13-14-14-14½-15-16-16½ cm, with the last row from the wrong side. Do not cut the strand.
On the next row from the right side work the left band as before, then cast on 73-76-78-80-83-86-90 stitches for the yoke and work the right band from the right side as before = 79-82-84-86-89-92-96 stitches.
The rows begin and end with 2 stitches I-cord followed by 1 garter stitch. Insert 1 marker inside one of the bands (= mid-front), the piece is measured from here.

YOKE

= 79-82-84-86-89-92-96 stitches.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches, each marker inserted into a stitch (raglan-stitches). You will increase for raglan on each side of these raglan-stitches.
Count 4 stitches (= left front piece),
insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 14 stitches (= sleeve),
insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 39-42-44-46-49-52-56 stitches (= back piece),
insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 14 stitches (= sleeve),
insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 4 stitches after marker-4 (= right front piece).
Work stocking stitch and the bands as before back and forth, and increase for RAGLAN from the right side, on each side of all raglan-stitches – read explanation above for how to work the yarn overs on the next row.
Increase for raglan every 2nd row 28-30-33-36-38-39-42 times (8 stitches increased on each increase-row).
AT THE SAME TIME, begin increasing for the V-NECK – read explanation above. Increase for the V-neck every 4th row 2 times, then every 2nd row 15-16-17-18-20-21-23 times and finally every 4th row 2 times (= 2 stitches increased for V-neck on every increase-row).

When the increases for the V-neck are finished, continue increasing for raglan. Remember to work the first BUTTONHOLE – read explanation above.
When the raglan-increases are finished, there are 341-362-390-418-441-454-486 stitches.
The sleeve-increases are finished. Continue increasing for raglan on the front and back pieces every 2nd row, 1-1-1-1-3-5-6 more times = 345-366-394-422-453-474-510 stitches. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 20-21-22-24-26-28-30 cm from the marker mid-front. Now divide for the body and sleeves.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES

Work 52-55-59-63-69-73-79 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 72-76-82-88-92-94-100 stitches on a stitch holder for the sleeve, cast on 8-10-12-14-16-20-22 stitches (= mid-under the sleeve), work 97-104-112-120-131-140-152 stitches (= back piece), place the next 72-76-82-88-92-94-100 stitches on a stitch holder for the sleeve, cast on 8-10-12-14-16-20-22 stitches (= mid-under the sleeve), work the last 52-55-59-63-69-73-79 stitches as before (= front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY

= 217-234-254-274-301-326-354 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-10-12-14-16-20-22 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow these threads to follow your work onwards, they are used when decreasing each side of the body.
Continue stocking stitch and the bands back and forth for 3 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker-threads – read DECREASE TIP (4 decreased stitches). Repeat this decrease when the body measures 8 cm from the division = 209-226-246-266-293-318-346 stitches.
Work until the piece measures 36-38-40-41-43-45-47 cm from the marker mid-front.
On the next row from the wrong side, decrease 3-0-0-2-5-4-4 stitches evenly on the row (do not decrease across the bands) = 206-226-246-264-288-314-342 stitches.
Now work A.1 (= flounces) as follows:
Work the band as before, work A.1 40-44-40-43-47-44-48 times, then the band as before = 326-358-366-393-429-446-486 stitches.
When A.1 is finished, continue with stocking stitch and the bands until the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55-57 cm from the marker mid-front. Cast off alternately with knit and purl.
The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES

Place the 72-76-82-88-92-94-100 sleeve-stitches from one stitch holder onto circular needle size 3.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-12-14-16-20-22 stitches cast on under the sleeve – read SLEEVE TIP = 80-86-94-102-108-114-122 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 8-10-12-14-16-20-22 stitches under the sleeve. The round starts by the marker-thread.
Work stocking stitch in the round.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next round decrease mid-under the sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 5-3-1½-1½-1½-0-0 cm a total of 2-3-5-4-3-1-1 times = 76-80-84-94-102-112-120 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 8-8-8-6-5-3-2 cm from the division.
Work 1 round of rib (knit 1, purl 1). Knit 1 round. Cast off with knit.
The sleeve measures approx. 9-9-9-7-6-4-3 cm from the division.