Rosemary — Cable Socks — Knit Together

SOCKS ROSEMARY

Let’s knit the Rosemary socks together, which will surely warm you and your loved ones. Happy knitting!

Socks Rosemary Concept

Socks Rosemary are the very socks with cables that will definitely become an indispensable element of your wardrobe. Thanks to the minimalist pattern, the socks look very neat and clean. Because of this, they will fit perfectly not only into a women’s but also a men’s wardrobe. In basic shades they will become the finishing touch to your look, while in bright shades they will be an eye-catching detail. What your Socks Rosemary will be is up to you alone. But having knitted one pair, you won’t be able to stop—tested…

Sizes

The model is designed for six sizes, designated by numbers 1–6, to which the sock width in stitches corresponds: size 1 — 44 sts (child), size 2 — 52 sts (child), size 3 — 60 sts (teen), size 4 — 68 sts (adult slim), size 5 — 75 sts (adult standard), size 6 — 83 sts (men’s).

Main parameters by size:

Ribbing stitch count: 44 / 52 / 60 / 68 / 76 / 82 sts.
Leg pattern stitch count: 44 / 52 / 60 / 68 / 75 / 83 sts.
Ribbing height: 8 / 10 / 15 / 20 / 20 / 20 rows.
Leg height from ribbing to heel: 19 / 23 / 43 / 51 / 51 / 51 rows.
Heel flap stitch count: 23 / 27 / 31 / 35 / 35 / 39 sts.
Heel flap height: 22 / 26 / 30 / 34 / 34 / 36 rows.
Stitches picked up from the heel edge on each side: 11+1 / 13+1 / 15+1 / 17+1 / 17+1 / 18+1 sts.
Heel stitch distribution: 8-7-8 / 9-9-9 / 10-11-10 / 12-11-12 / 12-11-12 / 13-13-13.
Number of decreases when shaping the heel turn: 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6 / 7.
Total heel stitches after shaping the turn: 15 / 17 / 21 / 23 / 23 / 25 sts.
Foot stitch count after working the gusset: 45 / 53 / 61 / 69 / 76 / 82 sts.
Toe stitch count after decreases (before grafting): 20 / 20 / 24 / 28 / 30 / 34 sts.

The height measurements can be adjusted according to your taste and preferences.

Gauge after Blocking

To make the garment fit the size accurately, you need to knit a swatch from the chosen yarn, block it, then measure the resulting gauge. If your gauge in the round and in flat knitting differs significantly, I recommend knitting the swatch in the round.

Main pattern: 10 x 10 cm = 36 sts / 44 rows.

Materials and Tools

Any classic sock yarn with a yardage of 200–210 m / 50 g (provided the specified gauge is met);
DPNs 2.25–2.5 mm (or another size to meet gauge), or circular needles with an 80–100 cm cable for knitting using the magic loop method;
Blunt-tipped sewing needle;
Stitch markers;
Blockers (if available) — to give the socks a beautiful anatomical shape after blocking.

Figure 1 – Schematic image of the sock and its parts.

Abbreviations

-- – repeated element; J st – joining stitch when working in the round; ssk/k2tog – knit 2 together with a left/right slant; R (or r) – row; p2tog – purl 2 together; WS row – wrong side of the work; blocking – wet blocking; RS row – right side of the work; edge st – edge stitch (at the beginning of the row slip without working, at the end purl it); extra – extra; p – purl stitch; ktbl – twisted knit stitch; k – knit stitch; M1P – purl increase from the strand; inc – increase, to increase; M1 tbl – stitch increase worked as a twisted knit; st – stitch; M (M1, M2) – marker; cross – crossing; BOR marker – beginning-of-round marker; Cable – element of the “Main pattern”.

Terms and Definitions

Horseshoe heel — one of the most popular heel types in sock knitting. Its advantages: sufficient heel flap height and a comfortable fit. A reinforced heel flap is knitted in a denser pattern, which prevents it from wearing out quickly. The heel turn is the lower cup-shaped part of the heel, worked using short rows. The gusset looks like a right triangle and is knitted on both sides of the sock at the sides; thanks to it, the sock fits the foot well and does not “slide down.” Kitchener stitch is worked on open stitches and imitates stockinette stitch.

Working Process

Knit the “Ribbing” (1×1 with a twisted knit) to the required length.
Distribute the “Main pattern” and knit the leg to the point where the heel shaping begins.
Shape the “horseshoe heel” with a reinforced flap (reinforced heel flap, heel turn, picking up stitches along the heel edge).
Knit the foot while simultaneously shaping the gusset with decreases along the sides of the heel.
Knit the foot to the required length: the upper part in the “Main pattern,” the lower part in stockinette stitch.
The final stage is knitting the toe: distributing stitches, decreasing, and closing the toe with a needle using Kitchener stitch.

1. Leg

Leg: Ribbing

1.1. On circular (or DPN) needles 0.25 mm smaller than the main needles (I used 2.25 mm), CO 44 / 52 / 60 / 68 / 76 / 82 sts + 1 extra J st. Distribute the stitches evenly over 4 DPNs or over 2 for knitting using the magic loop method. Join the work into a round using the J st, making sure the stitches are not twisted. Place the BOR marker before the first stitch formed.

The J st is considered the first stitch worked, and knitting begins from the second stitch, following Chart 1 of the “Ribbing” pattern (Figure 2 — appearance of the ribbing).

The ribbing is worked by alternating a purl stitch and a twisted knit stitch (1×1) all around the round. After working the first round, continue knitting the ribbing in the same way to the required height. The total ribbing height is 8 / 10 / 15 / 20 / 20 / 20 rows.

Leg: “Main Pattern”

1.2. Switch to knitting the main pattern. Change to 2.5 mm needles (or another size to meet gauge). In the transition row, use increases and decreases to form the required number of stitches and distribute the “Main pattern” repeats around the round so that the cables, separated by purl tracks and twisted knit stitches, fit all around the circumference. Depending on the size, the transition row uses a different combination of increases (M1P, M1 tbl) and decreases (p2tog), which produces the final pattern stitch count: 44 / 52 / 60 / 68 / 75 / 83 sts.

The basis of the pattern is a 6-stitch cable (3+3), which crosses to the “right” and to the “left.” Chart key:

3-st right cross — sl 2 sts to the cable needle and hold in back, k1, then k2 from the cable needle;
3-st left cross — sl 1 st to the cable needle and hold in front, k2, then k1 from the cable needle.

Next, knit in the “Main pattern” until the heel shaping, following the chart for your size (Charts 2–7 are read from right to left).

Size 1 (Chart 2): the repeat consisting of a cable and bordering purl tracks with a twisted knit stitch is repeated 4 times around the round. In the first three rows the cable is knitted straight; in row 4 the crossing is worked: the left cable “to the right,” the right cable “to the left.”

Size 2 (Chart 3): the same principle with wider purl tracks (3 p each), the repeat is repeated 4 times, and the crossing is worked in every 4th row.

Size 3 (Chart 4): the repeat with two twisted knit stitches in the border and two cables is repeated 4 times. Crossings are worked in rows 4 and 8, while the cable direction alternates, creating a textured pattern.

Size 4 (Chart 5): the repeat is repeated 4 times; crossings in rows 4 and 8, the cable direction alternates similarly to size 3.

Size 5 (Chart 6): three full repeats plus an additional pattern fragment that closes the round. Crossings are worked in rows 4 and 8.

Size 6 (Chart 7): three full repeats with wider purl tracks (2 p each) plus a closing fragment. Crossings in rows 4 and 8.

For sizes 1 / 2, repeat rows 1–4 a total of 3 / 4 times, then repeat rows 1–2 once more. For sizes 3 / 4 / 5 / 6, repeat rows 1–8 a total of 5 / 6 / 6 / 6 times, then repeat rows 1–2 once more. Total leg height: 19 / 23 / 43 / 51 / 51 / 51 rows.

2. Heel

Reinforced Heel Flap

2.1. Switch to knitting the heel. The heel is knitted in turned rows; if desired, you can use needles 0.25 mm smaller than the main needles. Reset the row counter. In the first row, increase 1 stitch in the center of the heel flap for pattern symmetry.

The heel flap is worked on 23 / 27 / 31 / 35 / 35 / 39 sts on the RS in a reinforced “slip every other stitch” pattern: alternate 1 knit and 1 stitch slipped knitwise (yarn held in back). On the WS, all working stitches are purled between the edge stitches. Edge stitches: at the beginning of the row, slip without working; at the end, purl.

Figure 3 — appearance of the heel flap on the WS. Continue alternating RS and WS rows in this way until the heel flap height is 22 / 26 / 30 / 34 / 34 / 36 rows.

Heel Turn

2.2. Reset the row counter. Divide the heel stitches conditionally into 3 parts: side parts of 8 / 9 / 10 / 12 / 12 / 13 sts each and a central part of 7 / 9 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 13 sts. The turn is shaped with short rows: work the central part, and each time join the last central stitch with the adjacent side stitch (on the RS — ssk, on the WS — p2tog), then turn the work. With each row, the stitches of the side parts are gradually brought into work, and the lower part of the heel takes on a cup shape.

A total of 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6 / 7 decreases are worked on each side. After completing the turn, 15 / 17 / 21 / 23 / 23 / 25 heel sts remain on the needles.

Figure 4 — appearance of the heel after shaping the turn.

3. Foot

Picking Up Stitches from the Heel Edge (for the Gusset)

3.1. Join the work into a round. There are 15 / 17 / 21 / 23 / 23 / 25 heel sts on the needles and 22 / 26 / 30 / 34 / 41 / 45 pattern sts on the held needles. After finishing the heel on the RS, pick up 11 / 13 / 15 / 17 / 17 / 18 sts + 1 extra st from between the edge stitches along the left side of the heel flap, from the last Cable stitch. Place marker M1.

Figure 5 — picking up stitches from between the edge stitches. Figure 6 — appearance of the finished heel (stitch pick-up area).

Next, work the held 22 / 26 / 30 / 34 / 41 / 45 pattern sts (continue knitting from row 3 of the pattern), place marker M2 (the former BOR marker), pick up 1 extra st from the first Cable stitch after M2 and another 11 / 13 / 15 / 17 / 17 / 18 sts from between the edge stitches. Work one more round in stockinette stitch (stopping 3 sts before M1). There are a total of 61 / 71 / 83 / 93 / 100 / 108 sts on the needles: 22 / 26 / 30 / 34 / 41 / 45 pattern sts and 39 / 45 / 53 / 59 / 59 / 63 knit sts.

Gusset

3.2. Reset the row counter. The gusset is shaped with decreases at the sides of the foot: on RS rows, at the beginning of the lower part of the foot (immediately after M2, at M1), work a right-slanting decrease (k2tog), and at the end, a left-slanting decrease (ssk). The upper part of the foot between M1 and M2 is knitted in pattern without changes. Work the decreases every other row (on even rows, knit the stitches in pattern without decreases).

Repeat the decrease and plain rows until 45 / 53 / 61 / 69 / 76 / 82 sts remain on the needles: 22 / 26 / 30 / 34 / 41 / 45 pattern sts and 23 / 27 / 31 / 35 / 35 / 37 knit sts. A total of 8 / 9 / 11 / 12 / 12 / 13 decreases are worked on each side.

Next, knit the foot without decreases: from M1 to M2, work the upper part in pattern; from M2 to M1, work the lower part in stockinette stitch, to the required length. Finish knitting with an even (decrease-free) row.

Foot sizes for teens and adults (size — foot length — length from heel to toe — toe length):
22/23 — 14.5 cm — 11 cm — 3.5 cm; 24/25 — 15.5 — 11.5 — 4; 26/27 — 17 — 13 — 4; 28/29 — 18 — 13.5 — 4.5; 30/31 — 19.5 — 14.5 — 5; 32/33 — 21 — 15.5–16 — 5–5.5; 34/35 — 22 — 16.5 — 5.5; 36/37 — 24 — 18–18.5 — 5.5–6; 38/39 — 25 — 18.5–19 — 6–6.5; 40/41 — 26.5 — 19.5–20 — 6.5–7; 42/43 — 28 — 20.5–21 — 7–7.5; 44/45 — 29 — 21.5 — 7.5.

Foot sizes for babies (age — foot length — length from heel to toe — toe length):
0–6 months — 9 cm — 7 cm — 2 cm; 6–12 months — 10 — 7–7.5 — 2.5–3; 15–17 — 11 — 8 — 3; 18–19 — 12 — 8.5 — 3.5; 20–21 — 13 — 9.5 — 3.5.

Toe

3.3. Reset the row counter. Use needles 0.25 mm smaller than the main needles (I used 2.25 mm). There are 45 / 53 / 61 / 69 / 76 / 82 sts on the needles: M1, pattern, M2, stockinette stitch. In the transition row, use decreases to distribute the stitches evenly between the upper and lower parts of the foot, while the pattern of the upper part is replaced with stockinette stitch.

For sizes 1 / 2 / 3 / 4, 1 decrease is worked in the transition row, after which 44 / 52 / 60 / 68 sts remain on the needles — 22 / 26 / 30 / 34 knit sts in each of the upper and lower parts.

For size 5, markers M1 and M2 are shifted 1 st toward the upper part, and 2 decreases are worked on the upper part. There are 74 sts on the needles — 37 knit sts in each part.

For size 6, the markers are also shifted 1 st, and 4 decreases are worked on the upper part. There are 78 sts on the needles — 39 knit sts in each part.

Next, the toe is shaped with paired decreases on both sides of each part of the foot: at the beginning of the part, a left-slanting decrease (ssk); at the end, a right-slanting decrease (k2tog). First, alternate the decreases every other row, repeating the decrease and decrease-free rows 2 / 3 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 6 times, then work decreases on every row — another 3 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 6 times.

In total, there are 20 / 20 / 24 / 28 / 30 / 34 sts on the needles: 10 / 10 / 12 / 14 / 15 / 17 knit sts in each of the upper and lower parts of the foot.

Graft the remaining stitches with Kitchener stitch, weave in the ends, and block. For drying, I recommend using blockers — with them the socks will acquire a beautiful anatomical shape.