JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid-front and top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, then for the sleeves and finally for the yoke.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.
NECK
Cast on 96-100-104-104-108-112 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 , work from -* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-19-23-23-23-23 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 115-119-127-127-131-135 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
YOKE
Insert a marker after the band at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below – without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. The markers should be of a different colour to the marker on the neck and are used when increasing.
Marker 1: Count 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches left on the front piece after marker 4.
Allow the 4 markers to follow your work onwards.
INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS
Read the whole of the next section before continuing!
Continue working 5 band stitches on each side, A.2 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.3 over the next 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.4 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches. A.1 shows 1 repeat of the pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of sleeve stitches remains the same.
On the next row from the wrong side increase for the shoulders as follows:
Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3.
The increases are different on the right and wrong sides, so the stitches lie neatly.
Continue the pattern and increase like this every row (i.e. both from the right and wrong side) a total of 12-16-20-22-24-26 times = 163-183-207-215-227-239 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The increased stitches are worked into A.1, make sure that A.1 fits over the stitches from A.2, A.3 and A.4.
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below.
INCREASES FOR SLEEVES
Continue with stocking stitch, pattern as before and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4. You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 13-17-15-16-18-19 times = 215-251-267-279-299-315 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 12-16-15-17-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck.
INCREASES FOR YOKE
Now increase 1 stitch on each side of all 4 markers as follows:
Work until there is 1 stitch left before markers 1 and 3, increase 1 stitch before the marker, work 1 stitch, move the marker to the right needle and increase 1 stitch after the marker.
Work to markers 2 and 4, increase 1 stitch before the marker, move the marker to the right needle, work 1 stitch and increase 1 stitch after the marker (= 8 stitches increased). You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves.
The increased stitches are worked into A.1 on the back/front pieces and in stocking stitch on the sleeves.
Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 5-2-2-1-0-0 times = 255-267-283-287-299-315 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 15-17-17-18-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working without further increases to the correct length. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next row as follows:
Work the first 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (front piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work 71-75-81-83-87-93 stitches (= back piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work the last 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
BODY
= 167-175-187-195-203-215 stitches.
Work A.1 back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side; the stitches which do not fit into A.1 in the sides are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue working until the piece measures 12-12-15-16-17-17 cm from the division. There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length.
Knit 1 row from the right side, where you increase 36-36-36-40-44-44 stitches evenly spaced = 203-211-223-235-247-259 stitches. NOTE: You increase stitches here to prevent the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 , work from -* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 34-36-40-42-44-46 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVES
Place the 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-62-64-66-68-70 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 5-6-10-13-15-17 cm from the division,
There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced = 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 9-10-14-17-19-21 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Diagram
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
= knitting direction
= increase for saddle-shoulder
= increase for sleeve
= increase for yoke