Changing yarn color gives an unexpected twist to this classic raglan pullover with a small gingham pattern. The design with a fitted yoke and perfectly symmetrical contrasting raglan seams includes instructions for short and long sleeves, a neckline finish in ribbing or I-cord, as well as general recommendations for changing the body and raglan length as desired.
Sizes: (XS, S, M)[L, 1X, 2X]{3X, 4X, 5X} for bust circumference (71, 81.5, 91.5)[101.5, 112, 122]{132, 142, 152.5} cm.
Finished measurements: bust circumference (92.5, 101.5, 110.5)[120.5, 129.5, 138.5]{147.5, 157.5, 166.5} cm. The pullover is designed with 9–21.5 cm of positive ease at the bust.
Recommended yarn:
- MC: Sprite by Ritual Dyes (60% merino / 40% Corriedale wool, 297 m / 100 g). The sample was knitted in color Jewelweed.
- CC: Dyed in the Wool by Spincycle Yarns (100% American superwash wool, 183 m / 50 g). The sample was knitted in color Verba Volant. For the CC, you can use a solid-color yarn of the same thickness as the MC.
Recommended needles:
- For ribbing: 3.5 mm circular needles, 80–100 cm long + your preferred short circular needles.
- For body: 4.0 mm circular needles, 80–100 cm long + your preferred short circular needles.
- For sleeves: many knitters work small circumferences more tightly, so it is recommended to use needles one size larger than for the body. 4.5 mm circular needles, 80–100 cm long, for magic loop, or 4.5 mm DPNs.
Gauge: 22 sts and 26 rows = 10 cm in stockinette stitch in the Gingham pattern in the round, after blocking. It is very important to block the swatch in the same way you will block the finished garment, because the classic Gingham pattern combines two very contrasting colors — this carries a risk of color bleeding. The blocked swatch can show whether the colors bleed. If you notice that the colors bleed, it is recommended to steam block the finished pullover.
Yarn amounts:
- For the long-sleeve version:
- MC: (526, 553, 635)(667, 727, 786)(878, 946, 1015) m
- CC: (503, 526, 567)(594, 654, 708)(800, 864, 928) m
- For the short-sleeve version:
- MC: (548, 617, 708)(800, 868, 937) m
- CC: (411, 434, 457)(480, 548, 594)(686, 777, 846) m
- If you want to lengthen the sweater body, add for every 4 cm:
- MC and CC: (21, 23, 31)(34, 37, 39)(50, 62, 66) m
Materials: one or two spare sets of circular needles for joining the sleeves, 4 removable stitch markers, 1 regular marker, waste yarn or stitch holders, tapestry needle.
Techniques: two-color stranded colorwork, knitting in the round, decreasing stitches, placing stitches on a stitch holder, Kitchener stitch (grafting), wet blocking or steam blocking.
Construction: the body up to the underarms and the sleeves are worked separately from the bottom up. Then the body and sleeves are joined and worked in the round, decreasing at the raglan lines, to the neckline. The underarm stitches are grafted using Kitchener stitch or the three-needle bind-off method.
Abbreviations:
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- k — knit
- p — purl
- k tbl — knit through the back loop
- k2tog — knit 2 together
- k2tog tbl — knit 2 together through the back loops
- Inc — increase 1 stitch: with the left needle, inserting the needle from the front, lift the strand between the stitches on the left and right needles, then knit it through the back loop.
- CDD — central double decrease: with the working yarn in back, slip the next 2 stitches together knitwise (as if to k2tog), knit the next stitch (tightly), then pass the two slipped stitches over the just-knit stitch.
Instructions
A few notes before starting:
1. To achieve optimal contrast, the lighter yarn color will be dominant. This means that while knitting you need to make sure the light color is always to the left of the dark color.
2. Make sure the sleeves and body are finished after working a complete 10-row chart repeat. This ensures that the body and sleeve pattern will match when joined.
3. After the sample sweater was knitted, the order of working the pattern chart was slightly changed. Follow the pattern chart and instructions, without relying on the appearance of the finished sample.
Sleeves
Choose the long- or short-sleeve version and follow the corresponding instructions.
Long sleeve
Ribbed cuff
With smaller needles and MC, CO (36, 38, 40)[44, 46, 50]{56, 56, 60} sts using your preferred CO method. Place beginning of round marker (BOR) and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Work 2.5 cm in twisted 1×1 ribbing (1 k tbl, 1 p).
Then work an increase round: k1, inc (34, 32, 40)[36, 44, 50]{54, 54, 60} times, knit the remaining sts to BOR. You should have (70, 70, 80)[80, 90, 100]{110, 110, 120} sts on the needles.
Long sleeve pattern
Change to sleeve needles. Work the full pattern chart approximately 11 times, or until sleeve length is 46 cm. If you have long or short arms, work the sleeves longer or shorter accordingly. It is strongly recommended to block the sleeves before joining them to the body, because their length may increase after blocking.
Cut yarn. Place the first (5, 5, 5)[5, 15, 15]{15, 15, 15} sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn. Place the remaining (65, 65, 75)[75, 75, 85]{95, 95, 105} sts on a stitch holder. Work the second sleeve, then go to the “Body” section.
Short sleeve
Ribbed cuff
CO and work the cuff the same as for the long sleeve: with smaller needles and MC, CO (36, 38, 40)[44, 46, 50]{56, 56, 60} sts, join in the round, work 2.5 cm in twisted 1×1 ribbing. Then work an increase round, repeating k1, inc (34, 32, 40)[36, 44, 50]{54, 54, 60} times, knit the remaining sts. There are (70, 70, 80)[80, 90, 100]{110, 110, 120} sts on the needles.
Short sleeve pattern
Change to sleeve needles. Work the full pattern chart 1 time. Sleeve length including the cuff should be 6.5 cm. Cut yarn. Place the first (5, 5, 5)[5, 15, 15]{15, 15, 15} sts on a stitch holder, and the remaining (65, 65, 75)[75, 75, 85]{95, 95, 105} sts also on a stitch holder. Work the second sleeve.
Pattern chart
Body
Lower edge ribbing
With smaller needles and MC yarn, using your preferred cast-on method, CO (200, 220, 240)[260, 280, 300]{320, 340, 360} sts. Place BOR marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. The BOR marker marks center back of pullover. Work 4 cm in twisted 1×1 rib (k1tbl, p1).
Body pattern
Change to body needles. Work the full pattern chart approx (4, 4, 5)[5, 5, 5]{6, 7, 7} times. For a cropped pullover, body length, including ribbing band, should be approx (18, 18, 19)[19, 21.5, 21.5]{24, 26.5, 26.5} cm. If you prefer a more classic length, it is recommended to add at least 7.5 cm. Each full chart repeat adds approx 4 cm of length. Do not cut yarn.
Joining sleeves
Next you will join sleeves to body while maintaining pattern and at the same time casting on four raglan stitches.
Preparing sleeves
Transfer (65, 65, 75)[75, 75, 85]{95, 95, 105} sts of each sleeve to separate needles; the remaining sleeve sts will stay on stitch holders and will be joined to body after yoke completion. If you only have one extra circular needle, that's fine: you can transfer the sts of the other sleeve to needles after you finish joining the first.
Body back
Holding body piece, with main needles work first row of pattern chart over (50, 50, 60)[60, 60, 70]{70, 80, 80} sts of back. Using knitted cast-on, CO 1 st with MC and place marker (pm) on just cast-on stitch. This marks left back raglan line.
Transfer next (5, 5, 5)[5, 15, 15]{15, 15, 15} sts to stitch holder. After yoke completion, these sts will be sewn together with held sleeve sts.
Joining first sleeve
Starting with 6th stitch, work first row of chart (pattern on both sides of raglan line should be mirrored) over (65, 65, 75)[75, 75, 85]{95, 95, 105} sts of first sleeve, maintaining pattern.
Body front
Using knitted cast-on, CO 1 st with MC and pm on it. You have marked left front raglan line. Starting with 6th stitch, work first row of chart over next (95, 105, 115)[125, 125, 135]{145, 155, 165} sts of front. Using knitted cast-on, CO 1 st with MC and pm on it—this is right front raglan line.
Transfer next (5, 5, 5)[5, 15, 15]{15, 15, 15} sts to stitch holder.
Joining second sleeve
Starting with 6th stitch, work first row of chart (pattern on both sides of raglan line should be mirrored) over (65, 65, 75)[75, 75, 85]{95, 95, 105} sts of second sleeve, maintaining pattern.
Remaining part of body back
Using knitted cast-on, CO 1 st with MC and pm on it—this is right back raglan line. Starting with 6th stitch, work first row of chart over remaining (45, 55, 55)[65, 65, 65]{75, 75, 85} sts of back to BOR marker.
There are a total of (324, 344, 384)[404, 404, 444]{484, 504, 544} sts on needles, of which:
- body back and front: (95, 105, 115)[125, 125, 135]{145, 155, 165} sts each;
- sleeves: (65, 65, 75)[75, 75, 85]{95, 95, 105} sts each;
- raglan lines: 4 sts.
Yoke decreases
A few important notes before beginning:
1) Decreases are worked provided you understand the rhythm of chart pattern (it becomes clear after knitting sleeves and body). As you work decreases, mirrored pattern should be maintained at raglan lines. Pay close attention to how pattern flows, especially after each decrease at raglan line. The first 1–5 sts after raglan line will always mirror the last 1–5 sts before it.
2) Always work the centered double decrease (CDD) and raglan line sts with MC—this way raglan lines will be solid color.
3) The yoke of this sweater is intentionally fitted, creating a close fit along entire length of shoulders and neck. If you have broad shoulders or prefer a roomier and longer raglan line, you can work some of the decreases from the first section (where decreases are every row) in the second section (where decreases are every other row)—this will increase the raglan length. You can also change the order by working the decreases from the second section first, then those from the first.
First section of raglan decreases
Decrease round: work in chart pattern to 1 st before stitch with marker, with MC work CDD over next 3 sts, remove marker and place it again on stitch resulting from decrease (first stitch on right needle). Continue working from chart, maintaining pattern according to rows below it (sts before and after raglan line should be mirrored), to 1 st before next raglan stitch, work CDD again, slip marker. Repeat similarly for all four raglan lines. A total of 8 sts are decreased per round (2 sts at each section).
Repeat decrease round on every following round (6, 8, 12)[14, 15, 21]{27, 29, 34} more times, i.e., a total of (7, 9, 13)[15, 16, 22]{28, 30, 35} rounds will be worked with decreases.
After first section, (268, 272, 280)[284, 276, 268]{260, 264, 264} sts should remain on needles, of which:
- body back and front: (81, 87, 89)[95, 93, 91]{89, 95, 95} sts each;
- sleeves: (51, 47, 49)[45, 43, 41]{39, 35, 35} sts each;
- raglan lines: 4 sts.
Second section of raglan decreases
Work 1 pattern round without decreases, working raglan line sts with MC and slipping markers up.
Then work a decrease round as in first section. Alternate round without decreases and round with decreases, repeating this pair (20, 20, 19)[20, 19, 18]{17, 16, 16} more times, i.e., until decrease round has been worked a total of (21, 21, 20)[21, 20, 19]{18, 17, 17} times.
After second section, (100, 104, 120)[116, 116, 116]{116, 128, 128} sts should remain on needles, of which:
- body back and front: (39, 45, 49)[53, 53, 53]{53, 61, 61} sts each;
- sleeves: (9, 5, 9)[3, 3, 3]{3, 1, 1} sts each;
- raglan lines: 4 sts.
Work (1, 3, 1)[2, 3, 4]{0, 2, 1} more pattern rounds without decreases so that you stop after a 5-row repeat. Cut CC yarn, do not cut MC yarn.
Neckline
Change to the ribbing needles and on the next round decrease evenly (0, 2, 16)[10, 8, 6]{4, 14, 12} sts. (100, 102, 104)[106, 108, 110]{112, 114, 116} sts will remain.
Choose one of two ways to finish the neckline: a ribbed neckband or an i-cord finish.
Ribbed neckband
Work 2.5 cm in twisted 1×1 rib (1 twisted knit, 1 purl) or until the desired neckband width. BO all sts knitwise.
I-cord neckline finish
Binding off with i-cord can be tight if you do not watch your yarn tension. If you have tension problems, take needles 1–2 sizes larger.
Using the cable cast-on, CO 3 sts, then repeat: k2, k2tog tbl, slip 3 sts from right needle to left needle until 3 sts remain. BO 3 sts. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail approximately 20 cm long, thread it into a tapestry needle, and sew the cord ends together.
Finishing
Join the remaining sleeve sts to the remaining body sts either with Kitchener stitch (stitch-to-stitch) or with a three-needle bind-off. Weave in all yarn ends, making sure all gaps around the forearm are closed. Block the piece in the same way you blocked your swatch.
