Foggy Autumn Cardigan

Введение

DROPS 236-33

foggyautumncardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-404
Yarn group C or A + A

SIZES
SIZES
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS

DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 10, fog

DROPS BUTTONS NO 630: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items

Materials & Sizes

NEEDLES
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Pattern instructions
Keep the screen on while knitting
Tools

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN

All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase to raglan on each side of each marker-stitch as follows: Work to the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over (= 8 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn overs as follows:
BEFORE marker-stitch: Purl the yarn over twisted.
AFTER marker-stitch: Slip the yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit, place it back onto the left needle the other way round (twisted), purl the yarn over.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES

The buttonholes are worked on the right band:
Work the first 6 stitches, turn and work the same stitches back, turn and work these 6 stitches again. Cut the strand.
Work 4 rows over the remaining 6 band stitches (first row from the right side) and knit together the last stitch from the right side and the stitch on the edge of the jacket. On the last row from the right side work all the band stitches as before.
Work the buttonholes when the band measures:
S: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 48 cm.
M: 4, 14, 23, 33, 41 and 50 cm.
L: 4, 14, 24, 34, 43 and 52 cm.
XL: 6, 16, 26, 36, 45 and 54 cm.
XXL: 4, 13, 22, 31, 40, 48 and 56 cm.
XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 58 cm.

START THE PIECE HERE

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK

Cast on 79-82-88-91-94-97 stitches with DROPS Air using 2 circular needles, sizes 4 and 5.5 mm, held together.
Pull out the needle size 5.5 mm and work with circular needle size 4 mm (doing this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 2, knit 1 , work from -* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 9 cm, fold the neck double to the inside. On the next row, knit from right side, at the same time work every 2nd stitch together with every 2nd stitch from the cast-on edge.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Insert 1 marker inside the 1 edge stitch; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE

Purl 1 row from the wrong side and increase 13-14-16-9-10-13 stitches evenly spaced = 92-96-104-100-104-110 stitches.
Insert 4 markers (without working the stitches) as follows:
Count 15-16-18-17-18-19 stitches (front piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 14 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 30-32-36-34-36-40 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 14 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker in the next stitch, there are 15-16-18-17-18-19 stitches after the last marker-stitch (front piece).
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker-stitch – read RAGLAN above.
Increase like this, each row from the right side, a total of 17-19-20-24-26-27 times = 228-248-264-292-312-326 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the yoke measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work 34-37-39-43-47-49 stitches, place the next 46-50-54-60-62-64 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work 68-74-78-86-94-99 stitches, place the next 46-50-54-60-62-64 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 34-37-39-43-47-50 stitches.

BODY

= 152-164-176-192-212-222 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for a further 24-24-24-25-25-25 cm. Now increase 14-14-17-19-20-22 stitches evenly on the next row from the right side = 166-178-193-211-232-244 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from the wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 1 , work from -* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off. The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES

Place the 46-50-54-60-62-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round for 2 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-4-3-2-2-1½ cm a total of 7-8-10-13-14-14 times = 40-42-44-44-46-48 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-33-31-31-29-28 cm from the division, increase 5-6-7-7-5-6 stitches evenly spaced = 45-48-51-51-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (purl 2, knit 1) for 8 cm. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-39-37-36 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

RIGHT BAND

The band is worked bottom up. Wind out a 90 to 120 cm yarn-end and use it to knit up stitches along the front piece (this means you can continue working without cutting the strand afterwards):
Start at the bottom and knit up 1 stitch in each row, inside the 1 edge stitch, with circular needle size 5 mm and DROPS Air.
Work from the end of the needle, where the wool-ball is = bottom of the front piece.
Cast on 12 stitches from the wrong side, extending the band outwards. Work back and forth over these 12 stitches and work the band together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (right side): Slip the first stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand at the front, * knit 1, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front , work from - until there is 1 stitch left on the band, slip the last stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, keeping the strand at the back, knit the next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (wrong side): * Slip the first/next stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, knit 1 , work from - over all 12 band-stitches, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2. NB! If the band becomes too long for the front piece, the band stitches can be worked together with 1 extra stitch from the front piece. Then work every 10th row as follows from the right side: Work until 1 stitch remains of the 12 band stitches, slip the last stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, with the yarn behind the work, knit the next 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over the stitches knitted together, turn.
Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When all the stitches on the front piece are worked together with the band, knit all stitches together 2 and 2, then cast off.

LEFT BAND

The band is worked bottom up.
Start at the top and knit up 1 stitch down the front piece in each row, working inside the 1 edge stitch, with circular needle size 5 mm and DROPS Air.
Cast on 12 stitches at the bottom, extending the band outwards. Work back and forth over these 12 stitches and work the band together with the front piece as follows:

ROW 1 (wrong side): Knit 1, * slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, knit 1 , work from - until there is 1 stitch left on the band, slip the next 2 stitches onto the right needle as if to purl together, keeping the strand in front, turn.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit 2 together, * slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, knit 1 , work from - until there is 1 stitch left, slip the last stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, keeping the strand in front, turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2. NB! If the band becomes too long for the front piece, the band stitches can be worked together with 1 extra stitch from the front piece on every 9th and 10th row as follows: slip 3 stitches onto the right needle at the end of the row from the wrong side and knit 3 together from the right side.
When all the stitches on the front piece are worked together with the band, work together as follows from the right side: Slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, cast off.