Введение
DROPS 214-54
fjordmosaicsetsocks
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-329
Yarn group C or A + A
SIZES
SIZES
Mittens: S/M – M/L
Socks: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
MATERIALS
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-200 g colour 0500, light grey
150-150-150 g colour 8913, light blue
SIZES
SIZES
S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 21-23 cm. Length: approx. 24-26 cm.
MATERIAL
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100 g colour 0500, light grey
50-50 g colour 8913, light blue
Materials & Sizes
KNITTING TENSION
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: For stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: For rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
SIZES
35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22-24-27 cm.
Leg height: approx. 17-17-17 cm.
MATERIALS
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-150 g colour 0500, light grey
100-100-100 g colour 8913, light blue
Materials & Sizes
KNITTING TENSION
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: For stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: For rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Pattern instructions
Keep the screen on while knitting
Tools
PATTERN
Mittens: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Chose diagram for your size (applies to A.1, A.2, A.x and A.y)
Socks: See diagrams A.5 and A.6.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch, apart from A.1 which is worked in rib.
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 36 stitches) and divide with number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 9. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 9th stitch. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together each 8th and 9th stitch.
HEEL DECREASE
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.6 until there are 4-5-5 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.6 until there are 4-5-5 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work A.6 until there are 3-4-4 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work A.6 until there are 3-4-4 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
Continue to decrease like this, by working until there is one stitch less left before slipping a stitch, and until there are 9-9-11 stitches left on the needle.
DECREASE TIP (for socks):
Start 2 stitches before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together using the opposite colour to the marker-stitch, work the marker-stitch as before, knit 2 twisted together using the opposite colour to the marker-stitch. Decrease in the same way at the second marker (= 4 stitches decreased on the round).
MITTENS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE
The piece is worked bottom up. Increase for the thumb-gusset as shown in the diagram, then the thumb-stitches are placed on 1 thread before the hand is finished. Finally, the thumb is worked.
RIGHT MITTEN
Cast on 36-40 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and light blue. Work rib in the round (= knit 2, purl 2) with stripes as shown in A.1.
When A.1 has been completed in height, knit 1 round with light grey where you increase 4-4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 40-44 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. The rest of the mitten is worked in stocking stitch.
Work according to diagram A.2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round work A.3 over the 3 black squares in A.2. Increase for the thumb-gusset as shown in A.3. When A.3 has been worked in height, 8 stitches have been increased in A.3, which now covers 11 stitches.
On the next round place these 11 stitches on a thread and cast on 3 new stitches over the stitches on the thread (cast on with the colours shown in the diagram) = 40-44 stitches. Continue with A.2 over all stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, there are 8 stitches left. Cut the strands and pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.
THUMB
Place the 11 stitches from the thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the first 11 stitches on the first row in A.4 over these 11 stitches (= front of thumb) – in addition knit up 9 stitches around the opening, i.e. 2 on each side and 5 stitches in the 3 cast-on stitches (work the last 9 stitches on the first row in A.4 over these 9 stitches = back of thumb) = 20 stitches.
Continue A.4 in the round. When A.4 has been completed, there are 4 stitches left. Cut the strands and pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.
LEFT MITTEN
Work the left mitten in the same way as the right mitten, but work the thumb gusset on the opposite side – see diagram A.x which shows where the thumb gusset is worked in the pattern. When A.x has been completed in height, work A.y to finished length.
Work the thumb in the same way as on the right mitten.
SOCKS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.
SOCK
Cast on 50-52-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and light blue. Change to light grey and work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round with light grey where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 46-48-50 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the next round as follows: Work A.5 over the first 30 stitches (= 3 repeats of 10 stitches), then work the first stitch in A.5 so the pattern is symmetric (these 31 stitches are the front of the sock) work A.6 over the next 14-16-18 stitches and then the first stitch in A.6, so the pattern is symmetric (these 15-17-19 stitches are the back of the sock). Continue this pattern.
When A.5 and A.6 have been worked 3 times in height in all sizes, place the 31 front stitches on a thread (i.e. the stitches in A.5) = 15-17-19 stitches left for the heel.
Continue with A.6 back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the last round – this will be used when measuring the foot-length.
Work HEEL DECREASE – read description above.
After the heel decrease, work the next round as follows: Continue A.6 over the 9-9-11 heel stitches, knit up 8-10-12 stitches along the side of the heel (with the colours in A.6), continue A.5 over the 31 stitches from the thread and knit up 8-10-12 stitches along the other side of the heel (with the colours in A.6) = 56-60-66 stitches on the needles.
Continue with A.5 over the 31 stitches on the front of the sock and A.6 over the other stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, decrease on each side of the 31 stitches – decrease inside the outermost stitches in A.6 as described below:
Work the first stitch in A.6 as before (this stitch is not a part of the decrease, but is continued in light blue), knit 2 twisted together with light grey, work A.6 until there are 3 stitches left before A.5, knit 2 together with light grey and work the last stitch in A.6 as before (this stitch is not a part of the decrease, but is continued in light blue).
Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-6-6 times on each side = 48-48-54 stitches.
Continue A.5 and A.6 until the piece measures 18-20-22 cm from the marker on the heel, measured under the foot.
There is approx. 4-4-5 cm left to finished length; try the sock on and work to desired length, but finish after a half or whole repeat of A.5 in height.
Continue with A.6 over all stitches, matching the pattern neatly over the stitches under the foot.
AT THE SAME TIME on the 2nd round, insert 1 marker thread on each side so there are 23-23-27 stitches on top of the foot and 23-23-25 stitches underneath.
On the next round decrease for the toe on each side of the stitches with marker threads – read DECREASE TIP = 4 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every round a total of 9-9-10 times = 12-12-14 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-6-7 stitches. Cut the strands and pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The sock measures approx. 22-24-27 cm from the marker on the heel, measured under the foot. Work the other sock in the same way.
Diagram
= light grey
= light blue
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 with light grey and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
= knit 2 together with light grey (= 1 stitch decreased).
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together with light grey and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
= thumb-gusset worked here; i.e. A.3
= make 1 yarn over with light grey; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole (= 1 stitch increased).
