Введение
DROPS 251-21
arctichorizoncardigan
DROPS Design: Pattern st-056
Yarn group B
Materials & Sizes
SIZES
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
YARN
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650-750 g colour 20, salt and pepper
BUTTONS
DROPS BUTTONS NO 623: 8 items in all sizes.
Materials & Sizes
NEEDLES
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.
KNITTING TENSION
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height, with stocking stitch on needle size 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height, with patterns A.1-A.4 on needle size 4 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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Pattern instructions
Keep the screen on while knitting
Tools
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN
GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
The diagrams show all rows in pattern, seen from the right side.
RAGLAN
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row to avoid a hole. The new stitches are worked in stocking stitch on the sleeves and into A.1-A.4 on the front and back pieces.
DECREASE TIP
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together, knit 3 (marker-stitch is the middle of these 3 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).
BANDS WITH I-CORD
BEGINNING OF ROW
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work 4 garter stitches.
END OF ROW
Work until there are 6 stitches left on the row, work 4 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
Work in the same way from both the right and wrong side.
BUTTONHOLES
Work the buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn), from the right side, when there are 5 stitches left on the row.
ROW 1 (right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck is finished. Then work the other 7 buttonholes with approx. 7½-7½-8-8-8½-8½-9 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the relief-pattern and rib.
START THE PIECE HERE
JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The double neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are worked in the round, top down.
The neck is folded double to the inside and sewn down.
If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.
NECK
Cast on 104-116-116-120-120-132-132 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Soft Tweed. Change to circular needle size 3 mm (casting on with a larger needle size makes the cast-on edge elastic).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work the next row from the right side as follows: Work 1 GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, rib (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and work 1 garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 6-6-6-6-7-7-7 cm (this is the height of the neck when folded double).
At the end of the next 2 rows, cast on 5 stitches for the bands = 114-126-126-130-130-142-142 stitches.
Continue the rib but now work the 6 outermost stitches on each side according to BANDS WITH I-CORD – read explanation above. Continue working until the neck measures 13-13-13-13-15-15-15 cm – finishing after a row from the right side.
Insert 1 marker, inside 1 band. The piece is measured from here.
YOKE
Insert 4 markers, without working the stitches, inserting the markers between 2 stitches (the raglan-stitches). These 2 stitches are worked in stocking stitch and you increase for raglan on each side of them.
Count 19-23-23-23-23-27-27 stitches (= left front piece), insert marker-1 before the next stitch,
count 24-24-24-24-24-24-24 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-2 before the next stitch,
count 28-32-32-36-36-40-40 stitches (= back piece), insert marker-3 before the next stitch,
count 24-24-24-24-24-24-24 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-4 before the next stitch.
There are 19-23-23-23-23-27-27 stitches left on the row (= right front piece).
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 6 band-stitches with I-cord, purl 12-16-16-16-16-20-20 and increase 1 stitch across these stitches (= front piece), purl 2, purl 22-22-22-22-22-22-22 and increase 0-0-0-0-2-2-2 stitches evenly across these stitches (= sleeve), purl 2, purl 26-30-30-34-34-38-38 and increase 3-3-3-3-3-7-7 stitches evenly across these stitches (= back piece), purl 2, purl 22-22-22-22-22-22-22 and increase 0-0-0-0-2-2-2 stitches evenly across these stitches (= sleeve), purl 2, purl 12-16-16-16-16-20-20 and increase 1 stitch across these stitches, 6 band-stitches with I-cord = 119-131-131-135-139-155-155 stitches.
Continue as follows with stocking stitch across the sleeves and PATTERN across the front and back pieces (bands as before), increasing for RAGLAN on each side of the raglan-stitches – read explanations for pattern and increasing for raglan above. Remember to work the BUTTONHOLES – read explanation above.
ROW 1 (right side):
Work 6 band-stitches as before, A.2 a total of 3-4-4-4-4-5-5 times, A.3 (= left front piece), increase for raglan on each side of the raglan-stitches, work 22-22-22-22-24-24-24 stocking stitches (= sleeve), increase for raglan on each side of the raglan-stitches, work A.1, A.2 a total of 6-7-7-8-8-10-10 times, A.3 (= back piece), increase for raglan on each side of the raglan-stitches, work 22-22-22-22-24-24-24 stocking stitches (= sleeve), increase for raglan on each side of the raglan-stitches, work A.1, A.2 a total of 1-2-2-2-2-3-3 times, A.4, 6 band-stitches as before (= right front piece). You have increased 8 stitches for raglan.
ROW 2 (wrong side):
Continue the established pattern and the bands – remember the diagrams are read from left to right from the wrong side and the yarn overs are worked twisted to avoid holes. The new stitches are worked in stocking stitch on the sleeves and into the pattern on the front and back pieces.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-2-6-2-2-2 times (4-4-4-12-4-4-4 rows worked) = 135-147-147-183-155-171-171 stitches. Remember to maintain the knitting tension.
Now increase as follows:
ROW 1 (right side):
Continue the established pattern and the bands and increase for raglan on each side of the raglan-stitches (= 8 increased stitches).
ROW 2 (wrong side):
Continue the established pattern and the bands and remember how the new stitches are worked.
ROW 3 (right side):
Continue the established pattern and the bands and increase for raglan only on the front and back pieces, i.e., after markers 2 and 4, before markers 3 and 1 – do not increase on the sleeves (= 4 increased stitches).
ROW 4 (wrong side):
Continue the established pattern and the bands.
Work ROWS 1 to 4 a total of 16-16-18-17-22-22-22 times (64-64-72-68-88-88-88 rows worked = you have increased 16-16-18-17-22-22-22 times on the sleeves, 32-32-36-34-44-44-44 times on the front and back pieces) = 327-339-363-387-419-435-435 stitches.
The sleeve-increases are finished in all sizes, the body-increases are finished in sizes M, L, XL and XXL – go to ALL SIZES.
SIZES XS, S and XXXL.
Continue as follows:
ROW 1 (right side):
Continue the established pattern and the bands and increase for raglan on the front and back pieces, i.e., after markers 2 and 4 and before markers 3 and 1 (= 4 increased stitches).
ROW 2 (wrong side):
Continue the established pattern and the bands.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 a total of 2-2-8 times (4-4-16 rows worked).
ALL SIZES
All increases for raglan are finished. The yoke measures approx. 23-23-24-25-29-29-34 cm from the marker mid-front. You have increased a total of 18-18-20-23-24-24-24 times on the sleeves and 36-36-38-40-46-46-54 times on the front and back pieces = 335-347-363-387-419-435-467 stitches.
Now divide for the body and sleeves.
DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES
Work 57-61-63-65-71-75-83 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 58-58-62-68-72-72-72 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-11-15-19-19-23-27 stitches (under the sleeve), work the next 105-109-113-121-133-141-157 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 58-58-62-68-72-72-72 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-11-15-19-19-23-27 stitches (under the sleeve), work the last 57-61-63-65-71-75-83 stitches as before (= front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately.
BODY
= 233-253-269-289-313-337-377 stitches. Continue the established pattern back and forth (including across the cast-on stitches under each sleeve) and with 6 band-stitches as before on each side. Work until the piece measures approx. 52-54-55-57-59-61-62 cm from the marker mid-front – finishing after a purled row from the wrong side.
On the next row from the right side begin the rib, decreasing 3 stitches evenly on the first row (do not decrease across the bands) = 230-250-266-286-310-334-374 stitches, as follows:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm, work the band as before, rib (knit 2, purl 2 – remember to decrease) until there are 8 stitches left, knit 2 and the band as before.
When the rib measures 6-6-7-7-7-7-8 cm, cast off a little loosely with rib.
The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the marker mid-front and 64-66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from the shoulder.
SLEEVES
Place the 58-58-62-68-72-72-72 sleeve-stitches from one thread on circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-11-15-19-19-23-27 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 65-69-77-87-91-95-99 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle stitch of the 7-11-15-19-19-23-27 stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-stitch and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 1 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 3 times, then every 10-8-5-3½-3-2½-2 cm a total of 3-4-7-11-12-14-15 times = 53-55-57-59-61-61-63 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-45-44-44-41-40-35 cm from the division. NOTE: If you want a turned-up cuff as shown in the picture, work stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 52-51-51-51-48-47-43 cm.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2), AT THE SAME TIME increase 7-5-7-9-7-11-9 stitches evenly on the first round = 60-60-64-68-68-72-72 stitches. When the rib measures 6-6-7-7-7-7-8 cm, cast off a little loosely with rib. The sleeve measures approx. 52-51-51-51-48-47-43 cm without the turn-up and 58-57-58-58-55-54-51 cm with the turn-up.
ASSEMBLY
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew together the openings at the top of the bands with small stitches. Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Fold the ribbed cuff up to the right side if you have worked the necessary sleeve-length.
Diagram
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
